76 Kurtis

73 Sanger Flat

73 Sanger Flat

Active member
Galen got his prop from Tom Bentley also , and it looks killer ..

Are you dropping down to 18" gears. I thought I seen you had 22's in it now ..  . I bet you will be about 11 1/8" or 11" diameter  when he is finished with it .. You may have to put some nickles in it to help with the attitude of the boat ..

My prop slip is about 18-19% right now .. .. I run 22's in mine and I am thinking to drop my down to 18 and spin it to about 7500 rpm.. Right now i am spinning to 7100-7200 and I want it a little higher for the engine . 

 
73 Sanger Flat

73 Sanger Flat

Active member
Oh , how much rpm did you flash on your prop burn ?? I think it should be about a 1000 less that your top end RPM ..

I need to get the flash rpm number on mine before I order a prop ..
 
D

Disturbed

Active member
Brazos River Rat ( Billy ) said:
Oh , how much rpm did you flash on your prop burn ?? I think it should be about a 1000 less that your top end RPM ..

I need to get the flash rpm number on mine before I order a prop ..
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It doesn't have much of a flash at all.  It pretty much goes to 5500 as soon as I stomp it and then climbs from there.  Tom was telling me that he likes to see it flash to redline.  :shocked:
That's why I'm going to have to try some 18s. 
 
73 Sanger Flat

73 Sanger Flat

Active member
That sure will wake the engine up flashing it to redline .. Harold told me to flash mine to about 6200-6500 and redline out about 7300-7500..

How much RPM are you wanting to see and what was the rpm last time out .. Pretty much dropping from 22 to 18 is going to gain you about 400 rpm top end..  Cutting a 1/4 off the prop will gain you about 800 rpm top end and 400 rpm on prop burn .. 
 
J

jimsplace

Active member
Billy

Get an 11X16 from Kindsvater and gear your boat for that prop.  It makes no difference what any other prop on your boat does or what anyone else's combination does. You must gear your boat for the prop, not select the prop for your gears.  When you buy a prop, does it really make any difference whether it is $700.00 or $850.00 if it works?  It is basically a one time purchase unless you hit something.

Kindsvater is one of the best prop guys around and it will work or he will make it work.  There are other prop guys around that make good props, but none better, unless you go with a C&C prop maybe.  They are at least $2000.00 though.
 
73 Sanger Flat

73 Sanger Flat

Active member
Jim
Harold is very good . I could tell on the phone he knew what he was talking about and was willing to help me get the prop that I needed for the boat .. He told me he the same thing that he would make the prop work an no extra charge..  I know that once you find the prop that works for the boat , you gear to the prop ..

He also told me if I was just playing at the lake and maybe 1000 ft , to keep the Tom Black prop I have and gear it down a little .. His props are more for the 1/4 mile is what he told me .. That makes since because my boat just run out there and does not keep picking up speed ..

I know it a one time purchase , but when money is tight , that is a lot of money ..
 
S

sturat

New member
I always thought you propped the boat and geared the motor??

Just thinking and that is pretty dam scary I know.
 
J

jimsplace

Active member
sturat said:
I always thought you propped the boat and geared the motor??

Just thinking and that is pretty dam scary I know.
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We may be talking about the same thing, who knows.  Many runner-bottoms with a 10* gear box can use an 11X16 prop or at least something very close and will be a very good set up.  Some may prefer an 11 1/4 or 11 1/8 or perhaps a 10 7/8, but something in that area.  Next you have to pick the RPM maximum you are comfortable turning your engine and then gear accordingly.  All of that is based on how your engine combination is set up.  One thing nearly everyone agrees on is that flat-bottom's like RPM.

More RPM = quicker and more fun.  :smile17:

 
 
spd500

spd500

New member
DISTURBED said:
Well, the verdict is in.  The block is cracked...  :smile18:
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That sucks . Is the rotating assembly still good , or do you gotta start over ? Might be a good time to go with a stroked and boosted LS  think.gif
 
D

Disturbed

Active member
spd500 said:
DISTURBED said:
Well, the verdict is in.  The block is cracked...  :smile18:
Click to expand...

That sucks . Is the rotating assembly still good , or do you gotta start over ? Might be a good time to go with a stroked and boosted LS  think.gif
Click to expand...

Everything is good but the block.  I gotta get the jet boat back up and running to sell it to fund the new build.  It will be better.  Not LS.....  lol (sorry, had to). I've got some research to do but, I've got my eye set on something bigger.  :wink:
 
D

Disturbed

Active member
Duanehydro said:
wth, blocks don't just................ummmm crack for no reason........no block drains? think.gif
Click to expand...

The engine froze the winter I was changing over to the vdrive.  The drain on that side was stripped out and cannot be removed.  It popped the freeze plugs that winter.  I guess it just took some heat cycles to expand enough to show up.  I took some pics with my phone but, they are not very good pics.  BTW, a heat lamp is not sufficient.  Expensive mistake. 
 
D

Disturbed

Active member
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Patchman

Patchman

Administrator
Staff member
So what I have gathered from this thread so far, is Disturbed will be jetting again! jump.gif Sucks about the block man! :smile25:
 
C

ChryslerJet

New member
Tim glad you found the issue sucks about the block.  If all the internals are good find yourself a good block get it figured out and put back together.  On the Jet boat post it up incomplete maybe someone would want it as is would get you back on the water sooner.
 
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