What's going on with everyone?

spd500

New member
I am on my way to the hardware store in town for more supplies , I will see what thier bolt selection looks like while I am there . They usually have alot of stainless stuff , but I am not really sure on the grade 8 .
 

spd500

New member
That looks like a hell of a ride , I would not want to experience that at any speed . I love how you can always hear some drunk redneck in the background telling everyone what the cause of the wreck was .
 

spd500

New member
Well , the new pump is in and the motor is set back down and bolted in . Waiting for the coating to cure on the bowl and T/A before finishing the install , but that part will not take long .
 

KONA77

New member
COONASS said:
Duanehydro said:
should be bolted-through the intake w/ high grade bolts, and nutted on the backside. don't forget the silly cone.

do they make a grade 8 bevel head  :smile21: or do you guys have a hex bolt head stick'n down  :undecided: I can't find any wit bevel heads

are you talking about carriage head bolts?,  if so,  not sure, and if there is yu will have to order them,  not going to find it a local hardware store
 

spd500

New member
I think most people just use grade 8 bolts from the hardware store , but you can get a countersunk bolt in grade 8 . Carriage bolts are probably not going to be the way to go for this application , the loader would need to have square holes in it to be able to really get the nuts tightened down properly . Here is a link to the type of bolt I think Coonass is talking about :
http://www.portlandbolt.com/products/bolts/countersunk-bolt.html
 

spd500

New member
When you drill all the way through the intake do you tap the hole , or just stick the bolt in and nut it from the top ? Seems like you would want to tap threads into the hole and tighten the bolt in and then nut it , but just wondering ?
 

duanehydro

Active member
spd500 said:
When you drill all the way through the intake do you tap the hole , or just stick the bolt in and nut it from the top ? Seems like you would want to tap threads into the hole and tighten the bolt in and then nut it , but just wondering ?
You wan to simply open the end of what's there...drill trough w/ a small bit, carefully enough not to damage the original threads, and finish-tap it.the bolts need to be threaded as well as nutted.
 

Blender Man

New member
Yes you what to be able to take them out and change them with out having to drill out the holes again. You do not get to do that too many more times.......these  bolts are going to rust and rust fast so, remember that video and check them...the one in the rogers was rubbing up against the sides of the housing................... :smile23:
 

Candygirl

Member
just wondering what a blot is  :smile21: blenderman is using blots on his boat
these  blots are going to rust and rust fast
just put new blots in the rogers
 

spd500

New member
When I got the Sleek the loader was loose on it , you could reach under the boat and shake it with your hand . Tightened it all up and ran it on the San Jac for one day , then tore the boat down for the new pump . When I got the pump out of the boat I took a look at the loader and it was as loose as it was before I tightened it . Not really sure , but thinking hard about the drilling it out and nutting it on the inside of the boat . 
 

KONA77

New member
sounds like a good idea,  a little extra insurance,  espacially if you know that it wont stay tight like it is
 

J C Gordon

New member
Its always a good idea to drill thru and put lock nuts on the top side. Ever have a loader break or come loose at speeds, its not gonna be good.. I may be wrong but I think Spanky Spanky had one break on him during a race and it spun the boat out.. Could have been bad.. Also check the welds on the loader from time to time.. Just food for thought... :smile17:
 

WFO

New member
Just doing that working thing. Got to order me some new rocker arms :smile13:and then I will be ready for the next lake trip. :smile17:
 
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