Gold Member
New member
I hope it works out for you James! You have worked hard on that boat and ready to see you be able to enjoy it and not have to worry about engine problems.
Stuff you need to switch over to an LSX platform.
- Thread starter blazeracer
- Start date
Last Mohecian
Administrator
Motor Head said:
X 1000
FormulaZR
New member
Blaze - which engine (specifically) are you looking to install? Are you going to do carb or EFI?
I probably have some info on that that you will want.
Let me first start by saying, if you're interesed in future high performance (over 500 hp) stay away from 97-98 LS1 engines. If they are a complete long block, they can be identified by perimeter bolt valve covers.
Second - many of these engines use different injectors AND different injector plugs. LS1 is EV1, LS2 is EV6, and truck is Mini Delphi. Keep this in mind...
Also, the early (very early 99 and prior) PCM is an SOB to tune - and it gets cranky if put into speed density. Some of the trucks and cars used a DBW throttle body vs a cable TB. Just make sure of what you're getting. A DBW TB can be swapped, but there is a different PCM (512 vs 1k). If you want to use a DBW, you need the pedal assembly. You can get a kit at Scoggin-Dickey for an ECU, harness, pedal, and a whole bunch of other stuff for a great price (DBW only).
Also - don't forget that some engines are 24X reluctor and some are 58X reluctor.
Another thing - some use a 3 bolt cam, and some use a single bolt cam.
You can modify the harness yourself for standalone duty, but it's a huge PITA. Plus, you need to add a fuse block and some relays since you won't be using the BCM or the factory fuse block. You'll also want an OBD2 port added. There is a guy on eBay who does this for around $220 - it's money well spent. Don't forget to get VATS deleted.
FYI - the rods on all LSx's (besides the LS7 and LS9) are powder metal. They do not do well if constant RPM is over 5500-6000 rpm - I don't care what you've heard. The rod bolts are also suspect. IF you can, at least change the rod bolts out for ARPs. These engines handle a +/- 125 hp shot of N2O with reasonable reliability - beyond that, and it's on borrowed time. The stock crank is good to 900-1000 hp. All LS type engines are not a main priority system - they oil the top end first. I highly recommend a remote oil filter and oil cooler.
Gen 3 engine
LS1 - 5.7L aluminum block, cathedral port heads
LS6 - 5.7L aluminum block, cathedral port heads - the block is different internally than the LS1
LR4 - 4.8L iron block, cathedral port heads
LM7 & L59 - 5.3L iron block, cathedral port heads
LM4 & L33 - 5.3L aluminum block, cathedral port heads
LQ4 - 6.0L iron block, cathedral port heads
LQ9 - 6.0L iron block, cathedral port heads, 10:1 CR
Gen 4 engine
LS2 - 6.0L aluminum block, cathedral port heads
LY2 - 4.8L iron block, cathedral port
LY5 & LMG - 5.3L iron block
LH6 & LC9 - 5.3L aluminum block
LH8 - 5.3L found in Hummer H3, Canyon, and Colorado
LY6 - 6.0L iron block
L76 - 6.0L aluminum block
LFA - 6.0L - used in the Hybrids
L92 - 6.2L aluminum block, rectangle port heads
LS4 - 5.3L aluminum block - FWD application, different bellhousing
LS7 - 7.0L aluminum block, dry sump from the factory, LS7 specific cathedral port - fully forged rotating assembly
LS3 - 6.2L aluminum block, rectangle port heads
L99 - 6.2L aluminum block, rectangle port heads
LS9 - 6.2L supercharged - fully forged rotating assembly
LSA - 6.2L supercharged
I probably have some info on that that you will want.
Let me first start by saying, if you're interesed in future high performance (over 500 hp) stay away from 97-98 LS1 engines. If they are a complete long block, they can be identified by perimeter bolt valve covers.
Second - many of these engines use different injectors AND different injector plugs. LS1 is EV1, LS2 is EV6, and truck is Mini Delphi. Keep this in mind...
Also, the early (very early 99 and prior) PCM is an SOB to tune - and it gets cranky if put into speed density. Some of the trucks and cars used a DBW throttle body vs a cable TB. Just make sure of what you're getting. A DBW TB can be swapped, but there is a different PCM (512 vs 1k). If you want to use a DBW, you need the pedal assembly. You can get a kit at Scoggin-Dickey for an ECU, harness, pedal, and a whole bunch of other stuff for a great price (DBW only).
Also - don't forget that some engines are 24X reluctor and some are 58X reluctor.
Another thing - some use a 3 bolt cam, and some use a single bolt cam.
You can modify the harness yourself for standalone duty, but it's a huge PITA. Plus, you need to add a fuse block and some relays since you won't be using the BCM or the factory fuse block. You'll also want an OBD2 port added. There is a guy on eBay who does this for around $220 - it's money well spent. Don't forget to get VATS deleted.
FYI - the rods on all LSx's (besides the LS7 and LS9) are powder metal. They do not do well if constant RPM is over 5500-6000 rpm - I don't care what you've heard. The rod bolts are also suspect. IF you can, at least change the rod bolts out for ARPs. These engines handle a +/- 125 hp shot of N2O with reasonable reliability - beyond that, and it's on borrowed time. The stock crank is good to 900-1000 hp. All LS type engines are not a main priority system - they oil the top end first. I highly recommend a remote oil filter and oil cooler.
Gen 3 engine
LS1 - 5.7L aluminum block, cathedral port heads
LS6 - 5.7L aluminum block, cathedral port heads - the block is different internally than the LS1
LR4 - 4.8L iron block, cathedral port heads
LM7 & L59 - 5.3L iron block, cathedral port heads
LM4 & L33 - 5.3L aluminum block, cathedral port heads
LQ4 - 6.0L iron block, cathedral port heads
LQ9 - 6.0L iron block, cathedral port heads, 10:1 CR
Gen 4 engine
LS2 - 6.0L aluminum block, cathedral port heads
LY2 - 4.8L iron block, cathedral port
LY5 & LMG - 5.3L iron block
LH6 & LC9 - 5.3L aluminum block
LH8 - 5.3L found in Hummer H3, Canyon, and Colorado
LY6 - 6.0L iron block
L76 - 6.0L aluminum block
LFA - 6.0L - used in the Hybrids
L92 - 6.2L aluminum block, rectangle port heads
LS4 - 5.3L aluminum block - FWD application, different bellhousing
LS7 - 7.0L aluminum block, dry sump from the factory, LS7 specific cathedral port - fully forged rotating assembly
LS3 - 6.2L aluminum block, rectangle port heads
L99 - 6.2L aluminum block, rectangle port heads
LS9 - 6.2L supercharged - fully forged rotating assembly
LSA - 6.2L supercharged
blazeracer
New member
The one I found last week was out of an 03 Yukon. I imagine it's gone by now. I want to get it in and running first, then start upgrading it. The only thing I may do before it goes is an LS6 intake, LS3 cam and yellow Vette valve springs. What I've read is that will give a rock solid 400+hp starting point, even in a 5.3.
DBW would be SWEET!! Then my hand throttle is nothing more than a shifter. Read about the reluctor thing too. Gotta get the right wiring harness to match.
If the yard behind the shop's available I may pull the 460 today. Took me less than an hour last time. LOL
DBW would be SWEET!! Then my hand throttle is nothing more than a shifter. Read about the reluctor thing too. Gotta get the right wiring harness to match.
If the yard behind the shop's available I may pull the 460 today. Took me less than an hour last time. LOL
blazeracer
New member
Motor's out and on a stand. 2 hours and 20 minutes from the last post to this post, got er all done in that time. The boat was under it's cover when I made that last post.
WINTERIZED!!
WINTERIZED!!
Gold Member
New member
Sweet!
blazeracer
New member
I was debating whether to get a motor only or one with the harness and puter.. After reading your info I think I'll go with motor only and get the right harness already made. What PCM would be the best to use?
Gold Member
New member
My money is on cam being one thing wrong
blazeracer
New member
Crusader said:
I'm gonna go get something to eat the pop the valve covers and intake. My money is on a lifter that crapped out. Number 8 cylinder exhaust to be exact.
blazeracer
New member
Not by choice brutha, not by choice.KONA said:
blazeracer
New member
Valve covers off, it's the same one that was making all the noise at Tawakoni that me and Ken tightened down. On all the rockers I can push down and have no movement, except that one. I can bottom the lifter out by hand. The spring will push it back up but the tension is very light. Pulling the intake next.
blazeracer
New member
Yup, wore a hole right through the bottom of it. Probably why it doesn't hold shit for oil pressure too. I can probably assume the cam is wrecked too?? Although is looks nice and shiny on all lobes. It could just be a defective lifter I guess, maybe? Have to mic out the cam I guess.
blazeracer
New member
That a lot of lifter gone. All other 15 are as they should be. Finger check on the cam, the lobe peak seems not as pointy as it should be.
blazeracer
New member
Probably didn't take long to plug the oil filter up either. New bearings in the short block then sell it!!!