Stuff you need to switch over to an LSX platform.

[Last Mohecian]

Cable or wire should be easily achievable.  For cable you would need to fab a bracket to go from Morris cable to a more flexible GM style cable.  Should be a simple as a small plate with a bell crank.  You could probably even start with a stock cable and cable mount from an F-body.  It would have the right hole for the OE cable.  There should be tons of those available in the yards.  Add a stud on it with a bell crank and a Morris mount on the other end and boom your done.  That could all be mounted in the engine compartment.  As for DBW I would think those connectors are weather packs on the pedal side so it will be fine in the boat.

 

[spd500]

The one posted looks like a water tight connector , I would just make a shiny cover for it because it would look alot better than having it exposed , and it would protect it from being bumped .

 

[Last Mohecian]

Wonder if you can make these work.  Price is right.

http://www.performanceboats.com/parts-sale/95162-stainless-risers-%2450.html

EDIT:  just realized they were already sold.

 

[blazeracer]

Wonder if you can make these work.  Price is right.

http://www.performanceboats.com/parts-sale/95162-stainless-risers-%2450.html

EDIT:  just realized they were already sold.

Replace that water bung with an O2 bung and move the water bung around the corner and you would be in business, except that they would not match the PCM LSX manifolds at all, not even close. Good thing they sold. LOL

 

[blazeracer]

Cable or wire should be easily achievable.  For cable you would need to fab a bracket to go from Morris cable to a more flexible GM style cable.  Should be a simple as a small plate with a bell crank.  You could probably even start with a stock cable and cable mount from an F-body.  It would have the right hole for the OE cable.  There should be tons of those available in the yards.  Add a stud on it with a bell crank and a Morris mount on the other end and boom your done.  That could all be mounted in the engine compartment.  As for DBW I would think those connectors are weather packs on the pedal side so it will be fine in the boat.

Adapting an F body or truck cable would probably be fairly easy, and I thought of that. The part I would wonder about is the travel of the cable. I don't want to be at full throttle and the reverse gate not all the way up yet. Although the gate opens a lot quicker than the throttle does. But on the opposite end, will it open all the way to full throttle or would my Glastron hand throttle only give me 7/8th's, or maybe 3/4. All good questions that trial and error will tell. Probably start with working a cable adaptation and go from there since that would be the dirt cheap way to get it done. Sometimes the easiest and simplest works best.

 

[Last Mohecian]

If the ratio is off on the cable travel you can adjust for that by making one side or the other of the bell crank longer.  Are you going back to the hand throttle?  If not then the reverse bucket won't matter.  Throttle is with the hot foot, FWD/RVS is with the hand control.

What did FormulaZR and Wasted Income do?  I know wasted income is using a cable TB not a DBW.

Paging FormulaZR.  Please proceed to the nearest white courtesy phone.

 

[WAFOBABY]

James there is a WRECK YARD out by my house called AAA auto salvage they have a ton of 5.3 motors and parts and wireing harnesses.  I dont have the number on me but I can get it for ya if you need it.

 

[FormulaZR]

I am using a carb right now...so the throttle cable was not an issue.


What I am probably going to do is use the 33C cable adapter I already have and make a bracket...

I have a message out two people who are using injected intakes to see how they did it - haven't heard back yet; will post up here as soon as they do, though.

 

[Crusader]

Here's some interesting reading.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1475006-76-sidewinder-jetboat-5-3l-turbo-build.html

 

[Last Mohecian]

Here's some interesting reading.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1475006-76-sidewinder-jetboat-5-3l-turbo-build.html

Neat build.  Looks like he is using a DBW TB.  Should be a quick boat when he is done.  I said it a while back over on PB, The LSX platform will be the next motor of choice for a lake boat.  They are affordable, dependable, plentiful, have large aftermarket support and respond well to power adders.  They are starting to turn up pretty frequently now.  There are certainly more of them than traditional Pontiac powered hot boats.

 

[blazeracer]

Here's some interesting reading.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1475006-76-sidewinder-jetboat-5-3l-turbo-build.html

That the same hull Andy has.

 

[blazeracer]

Here's some interesting reading.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1475006-76-sidewinder-jetboat-5-3l-turbo-build.html

Neat build.  Looks like he is using a DBW TB.  Should be a quick boat when he is done.  I said it a while back over on PB, The LSX platform will be the next motor of choice for a lake boat.  They are affordable, dependable, plentiful, have large aftermarket support and respond well to power adders.  They are starting to turn up pretty frequently now.  There are certainly more of them than traditional Pontiac powered hot boats.

The early photos show a DBW TB, the later ones show a cable TB. I was wondering also about running a closed cooling system on how to run the water lines since I'll be using manifolds. Got it .. lake water goes to the exchanger, then to the exhaust manifolds just like this.

 

[Sharkbit]

Sh*t I just found this thread. Good topic. Looks like it's a $2500 basic swap going the carb way. I sure hate to spend 900 on some logs but jesus 2200 for headers is gonzo. 

 

[Last Mohecian]

Sh*t I just found this thread. Good topic. Looks like it's a $2500 basic swap going the carb way. I sure hate to spend 900 on some logs but jesus 2200 for headers is gonzo.

and you can recoup a lot of that $2500 with the parts you will have to sale.

 

[blazeracer]

Sh*t I just found this thread. Good topic. Looks like it's a $2500 basic swap going the carb way. I sure hate to spend 900 on some logs but jesus 2200 for headers is gonzo.

Told ya, this is a killer thread with a lot of kick ass info Chad.  I don't think going EFI will be much more than going carb. When you pull the motor it will have most everything on it. I think for $2,500 it could have it in and running injected.

$650 for the motor w/ harness and puter
$750 for thru transom exhaust
$250 for the stand alone harness mod
You have a BBC bell housing that will work
$350 for a heat exchanger if your going to run closed cooling, which I plan on doing. OR $125 for hose adapters to delete the water pump.
A couple hundred for the fuel tank mod.
A couple hundred for Sean to program it.

BAM, you're smoking Cliff with a small block!!

I'll be selling my high end parts from the 460 to pay for this ordeal and keeping my stock pieces to drop the current 460 shortblock in the light boat. I still got the D0VE heads and a bunch of other stuff to get a mild runner in the other boat so I may focus on that for a few weeks, just to get it going.

 

[spd500]

Will these work for your swap ?
http://carbondale.craigslist.org/boa/2688130473.html

 

[blazeracer]

No, those are for a regular small block with the center two exhausrt ports together. Won't fit on an LS motor.

 

[spd500]

Didn't think so , but wasn't sure .

 

[spd500]

You think these would work with normal snails from another set of logs , or would you have to buy the other parts from them too ?
http://www.cassellmarine.com.au/p/850564/chev-gen-iii-ls1-manifolds.html

 

[Last Mohecian]

You think these would work with normal snails from another set of logs , or would you have to buy the other parts from them too ?
http://www.cassellmarine.com.au/p/850564/chev-gen-iii-ls1-manifolds.html

Nice find.  Those should work with any existing snail as long as it is the right diameter.  Snails come in more than one diameter.  Wonder what the actual cost would be after shipping from AU.