Stuff you need to switch over to an LSX platform.
- Thread starter blazeracer
- Start date
blazeracer
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I'll spec out the bearings, if they look good I'll put a roller cam in it and use that motor in the other boat. I'll have a lot of extra shit for sale though. I about had two complete Ford setups here, one for each boat. That will help fund the LS swap for this boat.
FormulaZR
New member
blazeracer said:
A stand alone harness will cost you around $600+, the harness modification will cost you about $225. So...if you can get a stock harness for under $300, you're money ahead to buy it and have it modified. They can switch the injector connection if you need it; or you can buy adapters for a little under $100.
If you're staying at stock power, then there's no reason you can't use the stock intake and injectors. But...for an LS6 intake you'll need LS1 size injectors (LS2/truck are bigger and LS3 are smaller). You can get LS1 size injectors with EV1 or EV6, but not Mini Delphi. If you're going to upgrade to something like a Fast 102, you'll need LS2 type injectors - which you can get up to 42# with Mini Delphi or in almost any size with EV6 (USCAR) connections.
The PCM you're looking for is called the "0411". Basically that's the last 4 digits in the part number of the computer. This is assuming you are going to use a cable throttle body. If you're going to go with DBW then the best bet is to call Scoggin and get their kit - in the long run it's WAY cheaper.
I am using a harness and "0411" PCM from an '02 Tahoe; and will have the injector connection changed from Mini Delphi to EV6 instead of using the adapters...mostly because the last thing a boat needs is more connections/wires than required.
PS - if you do the closed cooling (which is SOOOOO easy) you won't have to worry about keeping the engine at operating temp, winterizing takes 5 minutes, and the marine tolerances are much less of an issue!
Gold Member
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Cam went flat and that's what it does to the lifters.
Gold Member
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Did you put the small cam back in that motor James?
blazeracer
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So I send the stock harness to someone like this guy and he makes it stand alone, adds a fuse block on OBD-II port for $225? That's what I need then?? Great info! I'm thinking DBW from the get go too will make life easier. Are there 02 or 03 models that had it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/wiring-harness-rewire-service-ls1-ls2-6-0-5-3-swap-/320671375737?pt=Automotive_Services&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aa980e179
I was looking at a closed system for cooling too, but the heat exchangers are $$$$$.
You know, if this works out good the short wide will be next.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/wiring-harness-rewire-service-ls1-ls2-6-0-5-3-swap-/320671375737?pt=Automotive_Services&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aa980e179
I was looking at a closed system for cooling too, but the heat exchangers are $$$$$.
You know, if this works out good the short wide will be next.
blazeracer
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Motor Head said:
No, the small cam is still here. That was a brand new bigger cam. The boat actually ran really good with that small cam till the rod went through the oil pan.
Gold Member
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Ok. just making sure you didnt put used lifters back in it and them not be on the same lobe they broke in with.
Last Mohecian
Administrator
blazeracer said:
That closed cooling system would be nice as far as maintenance goes on that Glastron. I bet you can find a used heat exchanger over on PB. You will also save $100 on the adapters.
FormulaZR
New member
This is the heat exchanger I am using, it's just under $400 new. http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?pnumber=SK36903&mfg=SEAKAMP&desc=Westerbeke Replacement Heat Exchanger&mfgno=36903
You will keep mud/dirt/debris out of your engine, can run stock water pump with stock thermostat, operating temp will stay consistent, winterizing is a breeze - and if you "forget" it still won't hurt your engine.
Also - on the harness modification, that exact link is who I will be using for mine. But, keep in mind IF you're going DBW a lot of that won't apply. You'll need a different computer and harness. I will post later today with some more DBW info. If you're going cable, then yes - use the link you provided with an "0411" PCM and stock harness.
You will keep mud/dirt/debris out of your engine, can run stock water pump with stock thermostat, operating temp will stay consistent, winterizing is a breeze - and if you "forget" it still won't hurt your engine.
Also - on the harness modification, that exact link is who I will be using for mine. But, keep in mind IF you're going DBW a lot of that won't apply. You'll need a different computer and harness. I will post later today with some more DBW info. If you're going cable, then yes - use the link you provided with an "0411" PCM and stock harness.
blazeracer
New member
Regardless, whether I use a cable or DBW for the throttle, something has to be changed because the morse cable on it now is not going to work.
I remember what I wanted to ask. Your oil pan. Were you able to use a truck pan or did you have to get a GTO pan? I saw a thread somewhere where a guy did a LS conversion and the truck's rear sump oil pan hit the floor by the pump so he had to get a GTO front sump pan.
I remember what I wanted to ask. Your oil pan. Were you able to use a truck pan or did you have to get a GTO pan? I saw a thread somewhere where a guy did a LS conversion and the truck's rear sump oil pan hit the floor by the pump so he had to get a GTO front sump pan.
FormulaZR
New member
blazeracer said:
I used a Camaro/Firebird pan. I did not have enough room to use a truck pan. The Camaro/Firebird pan is a rear sump, which I preferred.
On the cable - I hear you there, and am working on a solution for that. I *think* I may have something figured out...but will have to wait until I have the intake in my hands.
For DBW - the pedal is like that used in a factory truck/car, that bolts to the firewall area - not sure how to use that in my boat without it looking odd yet.
blazeracer
New member
FormulaZR said:
I had a hot foot to put in my Glastron when I did the restore, however, my floor turns up into a bulkhead in the front due to the fuel tank being in the bow so I couldn't use the hot foot without changing the bulkhead itself. With that said I will be able to change it now since the tank will have to come out to be modified for the fuel pump. But still, a cable throttle would be great that will work on a useable cable. There's no way a morse cable will get it done unless you can adapt a flexible end to it somehow. I'm sure Matt can think up a way to make it work. He's good at that stuff having a Pontiac and all...
blazeracer
New member
This may work for the DBW pedal, then have to get a long A$$ wire to get the signal to the back.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-12-CORVETTE-C6-ACCELERATOR-PEDAL-DRIVE-WIRE-ALL-MODELS-FREE-SHIPPING-OEM-/170725076372?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c001ed94
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-12-CORVETTE-C6-ACCELERATOR-PEDAL-DRIVE-WIRE-ALL-MODELS-FREE-SHIPPING-OEM-/170725076372?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c001ed94
blazeracer
New member
Crusader said:
No, the hot foot will get used in the Enforcer. There's a mounting spot for it in that boat. I could maybe put a chrome barefoot on it.
blazeracer
New member
spd500 said:
DBW just might be easier to adapt than getting the stock morse cable to funtion correcty. I may have some time to go diggin though pick a part tomorrow and look at some LS stuff.
BUt let's get this straight. If you switch to drive by wire I know you MUST have a DBW throttle body and ECM, anything else?